Bootlegger Briefs

Camouflage and cocktails

Cocktails were already in vogue before Prohibition, but many new ones were created—mostly because adding fruit juice (often citrus), sweeteners, and/or mixers (like ginger all or other pop) watered down the objectionable taste of “bathtub gin.” If you’re wondering how that name arose, it is because illegal booze bottles were often topped off with water in the tub. Kitchen faucets were not high enough to accommodate the bottles.

Gin became the most commonly manufactured illegal liquor because it was the cheapest and easiest to produce. With the right equipment and ingredients, gin could be created in a few hours. It became the base for some new cocktails during the Roaring Twenties. The Bees Knees, the Last Word, and the Money Gland were all invented at that time. Another 1920s creation was the Mary Pickford, named for the movie star, which had a rum base. No evidence exists that the drink was created for her, or even that she ever consumed it. The drink may have been invented by Eddie Woelke, an American bartender who moved to Cuba. Harry Craddock was another well-known American mixologist who left the country after Prohibition started. He later authored The Savoy Cocktail Book, which contains a number of famous drink recipes from the era.

But unsung bartenders at speakeasies sometimes also concocted new drinks with odd ingredients. Both the White Lady and the Chicago Fizz contained egg whites to make them frothy.

Several other cocktails are associated with the era, but actually pre-dated the Volstead Act. Sidecars, Gin Rickeys, and Old-Fashioneds all date back to the 1800s.

In doing research for my books, I’ve found a lot of mocktail recipes. I included a couple in The Surly Secretary. If you want to throw a Roaring Twenties party without drinks, I’m including one mocktail recipe here. The Shirley Temple is a childhood favorite of mine. That drink was born after Prohibition was repealed, and stories about its origin vary. The most prevalent one is that a bartender at Chasen’s in West Hollywood invented it so the child star could have a drink with the adults at the table. I haven’t had one in years, but I may this summer!

Fill a highball, martini, or margarita glass with ice.

Add grenadine to taste (1/2 to 1 ounce).

Add a splash of lime or orange juice.

Top with ginger ale or lemon-lime soda.

Stir gently to combine ingredients.

Garnish with two maraschino cherries.

Pop in a straw.

“Bootlegger Briefs” will be back on June 15, but watch for a special “Mashie Monday” on June 1 and a fun “Motorcar Monday on June 8! Until then, cheers!